Tuesday, 6 August 2013

Real Life Diving Adventures Part 2 - Turtle Terror!

Coral reefs; some call them the rainforests of the Ocean. Home to an incredible diversity of fish, reptile and invertebrate species, coral reefs possess a wealth of biodiversity, but this wondrous bounty of plants and animals also comes at a terrible price. The beautiful reef systems around the world that we study and enjoy are also home to a terrifying arsenal of threats, ready and waiting to seek out and kill the unwary, the ignorant and the foolish.

From the mighty moray eel, which can grow up to 10m in length and has been known to strangle divers to death, to the vicious damselfish, which use large numbers to swarm and overwhelm their victims, the coral reef is a veritable smorgasbord of danger and death.

I've witnessed my fair share of carnage at sea. One time, I startled a golden trevally, which promptly swam straight into my face before fleeing into the open ocean. On another occasion, a pack of ravenous lionfish chased my team and I from our transect line during a survey, forcing us to abandon our equipment and abort the dive. Every diver I know has their own tales of terror. Some have been menaced by triggerfish, others chased by sea urchins. I even know someone who gave themselves concussion after bashing their head whilst unwittingly surfacing beneath a manta ray.

It's easily done.

To this catalogue of horrors, I must however add my own tale of marine savagery. Never will I forget my brush with death in the ocean, nor the beast that nearly robbed me of my life.

I was working out in Madagascar at the time, and my buddy and I were nearing the end of our dive. We'd been carrying out a routine rapid reef reconnaissance dive, searching for new areas of hard coral cover to record and map. We were just nearing the end of our 45 minute sweep and were preparing to begin our ascent and make our safety stop. I checked my instruments, noting my current depth and remaining air supply, and signalled to my buddy that it was time to begin our journey to the surface. We orientated ourselves correctly, and were about to begin swimming for the shallows, when suddenly my buddy began to signal desperately at me.

He had locked his hands together, both palms down, with one hand on top of the other, whilst wiggling his thumbs in little circles on either side. I instantly knew what this meant, but I couldn't believe that it was happening. Not now, not to us. We were both experienced divers, and had prepared for all sorts of eventualities and crises, but through all our training I had never imagined that I'd find myself in a situation such as this.

I signalled back to my buddy, hands outstretched with palms facing upwards in the universal “Where?!” gesture, and he began to point frantically behind me. Slowly, I turned around to look over my shoulder, and out of the corner of my eye, I saw it coming.

Roughly four metres from where we were drifting, a Green Turtle, Chelonia mydas, was making her way straight towards us. Turtles are often portrayed in the media as gentle, ponderous creatures, but nothing could be further from the truth. Amongst the dive fraternity, they have a well-earned reputation as vicious and relentless killers, and are often referred to as the “sharks of the sea”. As I stared into the turtle's cold, dead eyes, I realised that at that very moment, I could be looking directly at my own downfall. This was to be the creature that ended my life. This hideous reptile was to be my undoing.


Repressing my initial impulse to make a dash for the surface, I turned to face the oncoming nightmare. At our current depth, a rapid and uncontrolled ascent to the surface could easily result in decompression illness, and I struggled to remain calm and assess my options. Obviously, I'd never be able to out swim a turtle. Maybe if we were on land, I would just about be able to outrun her, but here I was in her domain, and surely I would pay dearly for my trespass.

I had strayed into the turtle's territory, and I knew that the only way to escape with my life, would be to face her head on. I reached down to my leg and grabbed for my dive knife, feeling a surge of adrenaline and relief as my fingers clenched around the sturdy plastic handle of the blade. As I pulled the knife from it's sheath, I suddenly thought back to my dive training; “Remember, a dive knife is a tool, and should never be used as a weapon.” I cursed silently and slipped the knife back into it's holder. A good diver should never act in contradiction of PADI guidelines.

Nearly a minute had passed, and the turtle was closing rapidly. She was now a good three and half metres away from us, and still approaching fast. I was quickly running out of options. If I didn't act soon, the beast would be upon us, and then there would be little chance of escaping with our lives. I looked back to my buddy, who was still signalling and pointing towards the turtle. Maybe he had yet to grasp the peril that we were in, or perhaps he had simply lost his mind in terror, I couldn't be sure, but clearly it was up to me to act. If I didn't, we'd surely both be doomed.


With the turtle now only two metres away, survival instinct took over. I had to confront the creature, but I don't remember making a conscientious decision, my body simply did what was necessary to protect itself. I kicked up with both my legs, placing them between myself and my armoured nemesis. Still she came onwards, cutting through the water like a Toyota Yaris. As she closed, now only a metre from my buddy and I, I realised that, if I were to defend myself, now was to be my only chance. In one swift kick, I finned the turtle in the head, sending her spinning away into the blue.

This was our chance to escape! I motioned back to my buddy, giving the ascend signal. He replied with a sort of, “What the hell did you do that for?” gesture, which to this day I've still never really understood. We immediately headed for the surface, pausing only for a three minute safety stop.


This time, we'd been lucky enough to escape with our lives, and as we clambered back onto the dive boat, I vowed that never again would I be as reckless as to allow my life to be threatened by a turtle (hence the reason I insist on taking a cricket bat on every dive).

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